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FTM Exhibitions Archive

Annie Phillips: Ancient Technique and Contemporary Art

18 May – 15 August 2021

Please note: this display’s opening date may be subject to change, in line with governement guidance.

Annie Phillips creates bold, vivid works of art using an ancient form of wax-resist dyeing, the art of Batik. Wax-resist dying can be traced back to ancient Egypt, and variations of the resist technique can be found across the world. Philips has studied with craftsman in Indonesia and Ghana, and with these techniques creates unique textile pieces.

This display, located in the Fashion Studio and free with your ticket to Chintz: Cotton in Bloom, presents over 30 examples of Phillip’s engaging practice.

About the Artist

Annie Phillips has been a modern batik artist for most of her adult life. She has worked and trained with artists in both Ghana and Indonesia, exchanging skills and collaborating on batiks.

From the beginning, Annie saw how her artworks could be adapted to the world of design and in recent years, has collaborated with numerous designers and architects. In these projects, Annie’s original batiks have been printed and glazed onto an array of surfaces, from canvas, to voiles, to glass. Annie has also worked closely with skilled weavers in Nepal and India, creating bespoke hand-woven rugs, inspired by and created from her original artworks. In recent years, Annie has established successful relationships with selected wholesalers and retail partners, transforming her artworks into a broad range of designs for fabrics, homeware and apparel.

Annie’s original source of inspiration, batik, remains the same. Annie’s aim is to create batik art accessible to a wide range of people, allowing gorgeous and affordable designs to be enjoyed in the homes and wardrobes of her customers.

Find out more at anniephillips.co.uk.

BOOK YOUR TICKETS
Please note that in order to facilitate our learning programme, this display will occasionally be closed to the public. If you would like to check if this display will be open on the date of your visit, please get in touch.

Chintz: Cotton in Bloom

18 May – 12 September 2021

Chintz: Cotton in Bloom is a collection with an extraordinary story, spanning hundreds of years and thousands of miles.

The complicated technical craftsmanship required to fix bright dyes to cotton, devised across centuries and using complex chemical formulae, meant that for many years Chintz was a closely guarded secret, or preserve of the elite. However, by the 18th century chintz had become more widely accessible. The lightweight, washable, gaily coloured and boldly patterned cottons eventually became a sensation throughout England and across Europe. These developments resulted in the intricate, colourful flowers of chintz fabric being cherished and preserved by generations.

Chintz: Cotton in Bloom showcases some 150 examples of this treasured textile, originating from all around the world; from mittens to wall hangings and from extravagant 18th-century sun hats to stylish mourning dresses.

Exhibition Organised by the Fries Museum, Leeuwarden, The Netherlands. www.friesmuseum.nl BOOK YOUR TICKETS

Please note that in place of a permanent collection, the Fashion and Textile Museum hosts a diverse programme of temporary exhibitions, displaying a broad range of innovative fashion and textiles from designers and makers around the world.

 

Exhibition Highlights

Coat and dress for women © photostudio Noorderblik
Palempore © Museum of Friesland Leeuwarden
Girls jacket with millefleur pattern; below a hand-painted girl’s chintz petticoat. Cotton, painted and dyed using the chintz technique. India, 1725-1775, jacket about 1760. Fries Museum Leeuwarden. Photo Studio Noorderblik.

Images left to right: Women’s jacket. Cotton, painted and dyed using the chintz technique. India, 1775-1790. Fries Museum Leeuwarden – loan Ottema-Kingma Foundation. Photo Studio Noorderblik. Hindeloopen under jacket. Cotton, painted and dyed using the chintz technique. India, 1700-1775. Fries Museum Leeuwarden – loan Ottema Kingma Foundation.
Hindelooper wentke blue-white © photostudio Noorderblik
Detail of jacket. Cotton, painted and dyed using the chintz technique. India, 1725-1750. Fries Museum Leeuwarden. Photo Studio Noorderblik.
Hindeloopen ‘wentke’ (long women’s coat). Cotton, painted and dyed using the chintz technique. India, 1725-1750. Fries Museum Leeuwarden. Photo Studio Noorderblik.
Images left to right: Detail of chintz palempore with Burmania armorial. Cotton, painted and dyed using the chintz technique. India, 1700-1725. Fries Museum Leeuwarden. Photo Studio Noorderblik. Empire jacket made from a recycled chintz petticoat. Cotton, painted and dyed using the chintz technique. India, 1750-1775. Jacket: Friesland, around 1810-1820.

 

Beautiful People: The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture

1 October 2021 – 13 March 2022

The Fool designs inside The Beatles Apple Boutique 1967. Copyright Karl Ferris.

“We were young, rich and beautiful, and the tide – we thought – was turning in our favour. We were going to change everything, of course, but mostly we were going to change the rules.” – Marianne Faithfull.

In the mid-1960s a handful of Chelsea boutiques sparked a fashion revolution. Freed and fuelled by creative exploration and experimentation, they began selling radical clothing to the counterculture youth. Their outrageously flamboyant designs were inspired by romantic ideas of the past; Byron-esque frilled shirts were paired with Regency brocades and plush velvet trousers were mixed with influences from Morocco and the Far East. They blurred gender boundaries with increasingly androgynous styles, creating an explosion of colour, pattern and decoration.

Beautiful People explores fabulous and rare examples from these era-defining stores and designers, examining the shared free spirit of Granny Takes A Trip, Hung On You, Apple, Biba, Mr Fish, Thea Porter, Ossie Clark and more. Clothes worn by the likes of the Beatles, the Rolling Stones and Jimi Hendrix will be displayed as part of recreations of these iconic boutiques.

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Please note that in place of a permanent collection, the Fashion and Textile Museum hosts a diverse programme of temporary exhibitions, displaying a broad range of innovative fashion and textiles from designers and makers around the world.

Out of the Blue: Fifty Years of Designers Guild

14 February 2020 – 21 February 2021

Out of the Blue celebrates the work of influential design company Designers Guild. Founded by Tricia Guild OBE, Designers Guild started life in 1970 as a small section of a single shop in Chelsea’s Kings Road. The brand has since evolved and grown into a global enterprise, whose products have changed the way we view colour, pattern and texture in our homes.

Out of the Blue unravels Tricia Guild’s unique and creative approach, focussing in on her inspiration, her intuitive design methodology and the techniques, processes and materials used. Frustrated with the lack of truly contemporary fabrics and wallpapers for interiors, Tricia’s vision was to create a lifestyle. Tricia showed people how to put the different elements of a room together; how colour, pattern, texture and form can combine to create a harmonious space.

Offering unique access to Designers Guild’s archive, with never before displayed original designs and art work, Out of the Blue will showcase the story of Designers Guild, in settings that capture the changing tastes in interiors over the past five decades.

Zandra Rhodes: 50 Years of Fabulous

27 September 2019 – 26 January 2020

The acclaimed British designer Dame Zandra Rhodes DBE founded her eponymous fashion house in 1969 with a small collection. Her prints were Pop Art-infused commentaries on the world of Sixties Britain; the designer felt that there was inherent structure within the pattern that could work with and enhance the shape and construction of a dress. With this concept as a starting point and with her distinctive approach to cut and form, the house of Zandra Rhodes soon became one of the most recognisable labels in London.

In celebration of fifty years of the Zandra Rhodes’ label, the Fashion and Textile Museum presents Zandra Rhodes: 50 Years of Fabulous. This retrospective will highlight more than 50 key looks, as well as 30 original textiles. This comprehensive exhibition will explore five decades of the distinguished career of a British design legend.


Exhibition on Tour

Upcoming venue:
Aberdeen Art Gallery, Aberdeen, UK | from November 2021

Weavers of the Clouds: Textile Arts of Peru

21 June – 8 September 2019

For decades, designers worldwide have been influenced by the traditional textiles of Peru. Weavers of the Clouds explores the processes and practices of both historic and contemporary Peruvian costume via garments, textiles, photographs, tools, illustrations and paintings, dating from pre-Hispanic to present day.

Works presented include pieces by contemporary Peruvian fashion designers Meche Correa and Chiara Macchievello, photographs by Sebastian Castaneda Vita, Marta Tucci and Toni Frissell, Peruvian-inspired designs from Vivienne Westwood and Naeem Khan and a broad selection of both traditional and contemporary Peruvian art, produced in a multitude of fascinating mediums.

With many artists of all forms now looking to Peru for inspiration, this is a very exciting time to examine the history and future of Peruvian arts.

Weavers of the Clouds: Textile Arts of Peru is supported by Kuna and Peruvian Connection.

Weavers of the Clouds: Textile Arts of Peru is accompanied by the display A Thread: Contemporary Art of Peru, showcasing the work of 17 Peruvian artists.

Curated by Claudia Trosso and supported by Martin Morales, the display will highlight the varied work of contemporary artists, working with traditional weaving and embroidery techniques, or interpreting the aesthetic of traditional Peruvian textiles and costume using modern mediums. A Thread: Contemporary Art of Peru will feature sculpture, painting, photography, mixed media and tapestry, revealing the versatility of contemporary art practice inspired by ancient textiles of the Pre-Columbian period.

Elizabeth Suter: Sharp Lines and Swift Sketches

 8 February – 2 June 2019

Elizabeth Suter (1926–2012) was a well-known illustrator and fashion journalist who for years covered the Paris collections for British magazines and newspapers. From 1953 – 1977 she also inspired designers and illustrators as a teacher and eventual Head of Fashion at St. Martin’s School of Art.

Suter developed a style that was fast and confident, based on a thorough understanding of the human body. Drawn largely from memory (as sketching was prohibited in fashion shows), her illustrations elegantly captured the movement of the catwalk during the 1960s. The selection of Suter’s work shown in this display, including coverage of Dior and Yves Saint Laurent catwalk shows, highlights her distinctive approach.

Suter’s role as mentor to a generation of fashion designers and illustrators highlights the impact of art schools on the design movement. Suter’s St. Martin’s (then based in Soho) proved to be a crucible for exchanging ideas as well as a place in which to have a thoroughly good time. Tom McPhillips’s 1972 film, A Lay in the Dife (also on display), illustrates perfectly the St. Martin’s at which Suter taught in until her retirement in 1977.

Will You Be My Valentine? Works by Natalie Gibson

8 February – 2 June 2019

Print designer Natalie Gibson MBE is noted for her love of colour; by her own admission she is a ‘magpie’ with an affinity for pattern and prints.  From her time at the Royal College, where she studied textiles, through her work for Sir Terence Conran’s Habitat in the early 60s to her current projects in China and India, Gibson’s work has been defined by optimism and an irrepressible joie de vivre.

From 1964, Gibson has taught at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design, where she developed the fashion print programme in 1980.  Hundreds of students have trained under Gibson’s time as course leader; her influence and network in the world of fashion cannot be underestimated.  Some of the greatest names in British fashion have studied with her, designers such as John Galliano, Sarah Burton, Stella McCartney, Stephen Jones and Craig Green amongst many others.

Her seminal work for Conran captured the mood of the times as well as her own distinct view of the world.  Saturated colours of pink, orange, purple and blue – often in analogous or contrasting combinations – defined a series of pop-inspired motifs that characterised her work: hearts, flowers, dots.  The graphic clarity of Gibson’s work has remained a constant; a printer’s palette and a painter’s eye coming together to create a unique, and uplifting, body of work.

Norman Hartnell – A Tribute

27 September 2019 – 26 January 2020

The first British ‘Fashion Knight’, Sir Norman Hartnell, was responsible for creating an innovative London fashion scene during the 1920s and 1930s.

Part of Hartnell’s international success as a Society and Royal Dressmaker by Appointment lay in his unique embroideries and in his commitment to reinventing the silhouette of fashion. During his career he dressed three Queens of the United Kingdom; his 1953 Coronation Dress for Queen Elizabeth II is an icon of mid-century dress design.

Decorated by the French Government in 1938, Hartnell designed collections for clients including for film and stage until his death in 1979. His many talents included war-time utility clothing, ready-to-wear, scent, millinery, hosiery, knitwear, shoes, scarves and jewellery.

This display of selected clothes, accessories and memorabilia demonstrates Hartnell’s innovation and lasting effect on British design and craftsmanship.

‘Whenever I think of beautiful clothes, I think of those designed by Norman Hartnell and worn by Queen Elizabeth during the State Visit to France in 1938.’ – Christian Dior

Swinging London: A Lifestyle Revolution | Terence Conran – Mary Quant

 8 February – 2 June 2019

Swinging London: A Lifestyle Revolution will present the fashion, design and art of the Chelsea Set; a group of radical young architects, designers, photographers and artists who were redefining the concept of youth and challenging the established order in 1950s London. At the forefront of this group of young revolutionaries were Mary Quant and Terence Conran.

Swinging London: A Lifestyle Revolution will span the period from 1952 – 1977 and will present fashion, textiles, furniture, lighting, homewares, ceramics and ephemera in an exhibition that explores not only the style but the socioeconomic importance of this transformative period of time. Key pieces include rare and early examples of designs by Conran and Quant, plus the avant-garde artists, designers and intellectuals who worked alongside them, such as designers Bernard and Laura Ashley, sculptor Eduardo Paolozzi and artist and photographer Nigel Henderson.


Exhibition on Tour
This exhibition is currently available for hire, please get in touch to find out more.

Previous venue:
Dovecot Studios, Edinburgh, UK | 15 July 2020 – 9 January 2021

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